Unwrecked Britain – A few days in the Co. Durham

Here is a view from the garden terrace at Raby Castle as it was last week when a party organised by Aspect Events spent a few days discovering some intriguing sites of Teesdale. Yes, the weather was just like this, ideal for gardens and country houses.

This is our hotel, Headlam Hall, near Piercebridge. As comfortable and welcoming a hotel as any you would wish to find, complete with golf-course, spa, and tennis court. Ideal.

First stop was Ushaw College. This might sound a bit formidable as a holiday destination, but for the sightseer like our group this grim building holds many treasures. All were hidden away for 200 years, as it was in use as a Roman Catholic seminary. First treasure, a chapel by, not Augustus Pugin, (although there is one) but by his son Edward Pugin. Complete it is with a lectern exhibited at the Great Exhibition of 1851 and a Paschal candlestick by Augustus himself.  But that is only the start as the tour also revealed silver, vestments, some medieval, and a Library containing examples of books that are not to be found in the British Library, as well as illuminated Books of Hours. Here is an example of one of the books in the ornithological collection. While here is an 18^th century silver sanctuary lamp from the English College in Lisbon.

Next day it was the turn of Raby Castle, newly spruced up for the numbers of vistors who are drawn to this ancient border stronghold. Much embellished in the 18^th and 19^th centuries it is now enjoying a renaissance as a tourist destination. Wonderful contents  in silk-clad chambers, which our party overlooked as we explored those parts of the castle not normally open to the public. Dusty, deserted chambers  harbouring state beds and forgotten ancestors gazing down at us, the intruders.

No-one goes to County Durham without a visit to the Bowes Museum. And so we did, but where do you start? The Canalettos? The El Grecos? The Sèvres porcelain? The Lady Ludlow Collection? The Textile and Fashion Department? The French Furniture? The English Furniture? The Silver Swan? So much to see, so little time. Better have a cup of tea…and so we did!

Day three dawned with visits to two rarely opened country houses, Aske and Rokeby.

Aske is the seat of the Marquess of Zetland. They owe their fortune to the enterprise of their ancestor who provisioned the British Army in the Seven Years War. He went on to spend his new fortune on art and architecture, much of which is now housed in Aske itself. Thomas Chippendale was much patronised for furniture and Johann Zoffany was commissioned to paint Sir Lawrence Dundas (the originator of the fortune) with his grandson. A charming picture. We were shown round by Maud, the Pug, ably assisted by Robin Dundas, the heir to the title.

Rokeby, pronounced Rookeby, is architecturally probably the most important house of those visited. It was built by one, Sir Thomas Robinson, a gentleman-amateur architect, and a follower of Lord Burlington. Burlington was a great promoter of Andrea Palladio whose architecture he made fashionable to the 18^th century aristocracy and gentry. Rokeby, certainly in the North of England, is a fine example of this style. Originally entered on the north side as prescribed by Palladio, the entry is now on the south into the basement as being more convenient considering the vagaries of the English weather. The house is owned by the Morritt family who have been here since 1769. Their most famous possession is, or was, The Rokeby Venus, which was sold in the early 1900s only to be slashed by a suffragette. (Apparently nothing new in knife-crime). A copy now hangs in the Saloon.